Tuning is EVERYTHING in CSR2. I know you might think it’s about unlocking cars, getting upgrades & fusion parts to win races but after all, this is something that the time you spend in the game is doing for you.
Tuning is the tool where you can make so much and not only your car better. You can tune your car for certain races, get easier opponents in Live Races, win the time trials and cup races a lot easier (they adapt to your RP and not your EVO, but more on that later) and much more.
In this article I will show you how you get the best possible tuning for every car setup and give you some of my extra tips that will help you for sure winning more races in CSR2.
How to find the best tuning setup in CSR2
In the first part I will show you how you find the best tuning setup in general for your car in CSR2 – step by step. You will also find some additional advice if you’re not that familiar with tuning. In the next section you will find some pro tips, but let’s start with the general tuning now.
PP & EVO
You might have recognized the numbers under the name of the car.
PP is the power of your car in stock or upgraded form & Evo is the extra performance you get for using fusion parts or tuning your car. For example, you’ve got 300 +100. In this, 300 is the PP and +100 is the EVO or EP as NM refers to it. Does this mean 400 total? NO! Most people think its more likely to be: 300 + (100/10) = 310 in total (this is just a guess only NM knows the true value of those 2 numbers combined).
The higher the EVO number gets, the better is your tuning setup and the time your car gets in races. So all you need to do is to make this rating be the highest possible – that’s what I will explain to you now.
Many people think that you will need to do hundreds of test rides from the tuning settings menu to find the perfect match, but it’s a lot easier.
You simply open every single upgrade tab (nitro, final drive, tire pressure…etc) and then you go through all the settings from start to end and watch the tuning rating – one of them will be the one that will give you the highest tuning rating and that’s the one you will select.
The number that will work best is DIFFERENT for every car, so there’s not one single best number but that’s the way how you find the best option in CSR 2.
So it’s simple as that, but be careful because this is not everything you will need to do!
Different Tuning Level / Upgrade Level
As you can see I’m using the exact same setup but I was changing one upgrade there and as you can see the tuning rating went down.
You probably guessed it right – every single upgrade part & level has an individual perfect tuning option! This means, if you use a stage 4 transmission upgrade and found the perfect option, it’s not the perfect option for transmission stage 3!
Every time you add fusion parts or a different stage on your tires, transmission or nitro you will need to check the tuning menu to see if you need to adjust some things.
Special tuning tips for CSR2
Now here comes the special part of tuning – as soon as you reach the end game and did some Elite Licence races you will see that the space for mistakes gets thinner and thinner and every little bit starts counting.
Tuning for 1/2 or 1/4 mile races specifically
The above-shown method works in general, but you can still fine-tune your car above that using the dyno and the test ride modes in the tuning menu in CSR Racing 2.
If you’re up for an event race (or trial or whatever) that you can’t beat note down if that is a 1/4 mile race or a 1/2 mile race. You can indeed get some extra value with tuning for these races as well. 1/4 mile races require a high acceleration while top speed is often times the key for 1/2 mile races.
You can start moving around the tuning options and check the dyno for a couple hundred cash and get a little better times for one of them while getting slower times for the other one. The EVO will go down but you see that either 1/2 or 1/4 mile times get better (like shown in the screenshot).
Less Shift = Better
Shifting costs time, sometimes only a little bit and sometimes more depending on the car you have (look at the shift time bar in the car stats). No matter if you do a perfect shift or not, make sure that the shift is worth it.
If you’re very close to the finish and it gets tight, rather do not shift even when you’re running on max speed – the shifting itself will lose you more time and there won’t be enough to make it up in the next gear.
I think this wins me a few races every day, so try it out 🙂
Here’s an example where the shift would have lost me the race because there’s not enough track left to make up for the shift time lost when performing the shift:
Best time to use nitro in CSR Racing 2
Some cars work best when using the nitro right after start, others work best when using the nitro in the 2nd or even 3rd gear. This depends on so many individual factors that there is no simple rule when to use it.
I know pure human logic tells that the faster I get to my top speed the better my times at the end. The thing is, wheelspin (the ugly red tire symbol) is your worst enemy. Wheelspin kills all your acceleration and when you fire your nitro into a wheelspin you will lose most of its value.
The best thing to get the best moment for nitro is using the test rides with the settings of half a mile and no manual launch control) and then use it right after start, after 1st gear, after 2nd gear, after 3rd gear… and so on. Then you will clearly see in what gear nitro will be working best for your current setup.
Attention! Downtuning…
All the above settings are working great unless you are going for Live Races. You will be placed against opponents depending on what dyno times you get. The crucial thing here is that the opponents in your lobby have dyno times with a difference of 0.2s – e.g. the cars with times of 12.100s to 12.299s get matches against each other. If your dyno time is now 12.280s you will get a lot harder races than if you would have 12.120s.
In this case, you can adapt your tuning to get on top of the little slower ones – that’s called down tuning.
If you’re really interested in knowing more about the whole “how live races work”, just check out my Live Races Guide here:
[irp posts=”45353″ name=”CSR2 Racing Live Races Guide – How to win every time”]
PS: DO not tune some really weird setup in order to get the easiest opponents, at some point you will then be placed in a lobby you really can’t win.
You are absolutely 110% dead wrong. The highest PP does NOT render your car the fastest. Neither does shifting in the green zone. That renders the most points but not the best time. I used to believe the same but for example on my z4 m40i, when finding the “perfect tune” as you say it, and getting a perfect launch and perfect shift, I run about a 10.3 1/4. Simply by moving the tune around to a less than perfect area, skipping straight to third gear then shifting at the beginning of the red zone, I knock that time ALL THE WAY down to 9.5 seconds. Almost and entire second difference by doing exactly what you say is unnecessary.
Don’t confuse “best tuning” and “beating the dyno” setups 😉
You’re right, there are tunings with lower PP that run faster but when you crush your dyno too much frequently you will get into a Live Race lobby with tougher and tougher opponents.
In terms of the headline I agree that this is not the technique to get the best time possible, it’s better about finding the most stable tuning setup.
If you#re looking for dyno beating times or the “best times”, check out my full list of all cars best times and tuning here – finding a dyno beating setup is really time consuming so this is why I wrote this guide initially to show how to tune in basic.
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Thanks 🙂
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